LORE® Relic Wax is a specialist product with a specific and striking purpose: ebonising unfinished guitar fingerboards. Applied to rosewood, pau ferro, or similar light-to-mid-toned fingerboard woods, it stains the wood a deep, natural black — giving the appearance of ebony without replacing the fingerboard. It can also be used on guitar bodies with nitrocellulose checking, where it settles into the cracks and stains them black for an authentic, aged relic aesthetic. This guide covers both applications in full.
Primary Use: Ebonising a Fingerboard
What It Does
LORE® Relic Wax penetrates the open grain of unfinished fingerboard wood and deposits a dark pigment that stains the wood black. Unlike paint or dye, it works with the natural grain and texture of the wood — the result looks like ebony rather than a painted surface. It also conditions the wood as it stains, leaving the fingerboard smooth, supple, and protected.
Which Woods It Works On
Relic Wax works best on porous, unfinished fingerboard woods:
- Rosewood — the most common use case; the open grain absorbs the wax readily and the result is a deep, even black
- Pau ferro — similar results to rosewood; slightly denser grain but absorbs well
- Walnut and other mid-toned woods — good results on most open-grained woods
It is not for use on finished maple fingerboards (the finish prevents absorption) or on ebony (which is already black and doesn't need treatment).
What You'll Need
- LORE® Relic Wax
- Clean microfibre cloths
- A soft brush (optional, for working into fret slots)
- Gloves recommended — the pigment will stain skin
Step-by-Step Application
1. Remove the strings. Full access to the fingerboard is essential for an even result.
2. Clean the fingerboard thoroughly. Remove all old oil, grime, and debris before applying. Any residue on the surface will affect how evenly the wax absorbs. A wipe with naphtha followed by a dry cloth works well — allow to fully evaporate before proceeding.
3. Apply Relic Wax to a cloth. A small amount on a cloth is sufficient to start. Work in sections — the wax absorbs quickly and you want to work it in before it sets.
4. Work the wax into the wood. Using firm, even strokes along the grain, work the wax into the fingerboard. Pay particular attention to the fret edges and the areas between frets where the grain is most open. A soft brush helps work the wax into fret edges thoroughly.
5. Allow to absorb. Leave for 5–10 minutes minimum. You'll see the wood darken significantly as the pigment absorbs into the grain. For true ebonising you may need several coats or to wait at-least 30 minutes.
6. Assess the coverage. After the absorption period, check for any uneven areas or lighter patches. Apply a second coat to any areas that need more coverage, working it in the same way.
7. Wipe away excess. Using a clean cloth, wipe the fingerboard firmly to remove surface wax. The pigment that has absorbed into the grain will remain; the excess on the surface will wipe away. The board should look evenly dark with a smooth, conditioned feel.
8. Allow to cure. Leave for at least 30 minutes before restringing. For the deepest, most durable result, allow a few hours if possible.
What to Expect
The fingerboard will be significantly darker after treatment — on rosewood, the result is a deep, rich black that closely resembles ebony. The grain texture remains visible, which is what gives it a natural rather than painted appearance. The wax also conditions the wood, so the board will feel smooth and supple. Multiple applications deepen the colour further. If you want a more intense black, allow the first application to cure fully, then apply a second coat.
If you just want the wood grain to pop and have contrast then use a smaller amount of the wax and let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes. This wont ebonise rosewood but it will give a really nice grain pop and contrast to the fingerboard.
Secondary Use: Relic Checking on Guitar Bodies
What It Does
On guitar bodies with nitrocellulose checking — the fine cracks that develop in nitro finishes as they age and shrink — LORE® Relic Wax settles into the check marks and stains them black. This accentuates the checking dramatically, giving the guitar a heavily aged, authentic relic appearance.
How to Apply to a Body
- Ensure the finish is clean and dry. Wipe down with a dry cloth to remove dust and debris.
- Apply Relic Wax to a cloth and work it across the checked areas of the finish using gentle, even strokes. The wax will settle into the checking as you work.
- Allow to absorb for 5 minutes.
- Wipe away the surface wax. Using a clean cloth, wipe the surface firmly. The wax on the finish surface will wipe away; the wax that has settled into the check marks will remain, staining them black.
- Assess and repeat if you want deeper, more pronounced checking.
Important Note
This application is permanent — the pigment that settles into the checking cannot be easily removed. Apply to a small, inconspicuous area first to confirm you're happy with the result before treating the full body. This is a deliberate aesthetic choice, not a reversible experiment.
LORE® Relic Wax is a product for players who want to transform the look of their instrument — ebonising a fingerboard for a darker, more dramatic aesthetic, or deepening the character of an aged nitro finish. Applied correctly, the results are striking and natural-looking. Apply sparingly, work it in thoroughly, and allow adequate cure time for the best outcome.