Waxing your guitar is one of the most effective things you can do to maintain its appearance and protect its finish long-term. But different parts of the guitar need different treatment — and using the wrong product in the wrong place can cause more harm than good.
Here’s a complete guide to waxing every part of your guitar correctly.
Why Wax Your Guitar?
A good wax does three things: it protects the finish from UV damage, environmental contaminants, and minor abrasion; it restores lustre to a finish that’s lost its shine; and it leaves a barrier that makes future cleaning easier. Think of it like waxing a car — the paint underneath is fine, but the wax layer is what keeps it looking that way.
The Guitar Body
The body is the largest surface area and usually the most straightforward to wax, provided you’re using the right product for your finish type.
For gloss finishes (poly or nitro):
Apply a small amount of microcrystalline wax to a clean microfibre cloth and work it into the surface in circular motions. Allow it to haze slightly — usually 1–2 minutes — then buff off with a clean section of cloth. The result should be a deep, clear shine with no residue.
LORE® Microcrystalline Wax is safe on all gloss finishes including nitrocellulose, polyurethane, and acrylic. It contains no solvents and no silicone.
For satin finishes:
Satin finishes are designed to have a low sheen — applying a high-gloss wax will alter the appearance. Use a satin-safe product sparingly, or simply wipe down with a clean cloth after playing.
For unfinished or oiled bodies:
Raw timber bodies benefit from a wax that penetrates rather than sits on the surface. LORE® Fingerboard & Body Wax is formulated for exactly this — it conditions the timber and leaves a light, natural lustre without a plastic-looking shine.
The Neck
The neck is where most players notice the biggest difference from waxing. A neck that’s become tacky or sticky from sweat and skin oils can be transformed with the right treatment.
For lacquered necks (gloss or satin):
LORE® Fingerboard & Body Wax is ideal here. Apply a small amount to a cloth, work it into the neck surface, and buff off. The result is a fresh, smooth feel that eliminates tackiness without leaving a greasy residue. Many players find a waxed gloss neck feels almost like a satin neck — significantly more comfortable to play. Another great option is the LORE® Instrument Polish for a quicker application. Leaving the neck silky smooth but slightly less hard wearing.
For unfinished necks:
Treat as you would an unfinished fingerboard — use a fingerboard oil first to nourish the timber, then a light wax coat for protection.
The Fingerboard
The fingerboard is the most frequently touched part of the guitar and the most in need of regular care — but it’s also the part most often treated incorrectly.
For unfinished fingerboards (rosewood, ebony, pau ferro):
These need oil, not wax, as the primary treatment. Oil penetrates the timber and nourishes it from within. Once oiled, a light application of LORE® Fingerboard & Body Wax adds a protective layer and extends the time between oil treatments.
For finished fingerboards (lacquered maple):
Do not use oil on a lacquered fingerboard — it has nowhere to go and will sit on the surface. Use LORE® Fingerboard & Body Wax instead, which is specifically formulated to refresh lacquered surfaces without grease or tackiness.
How Often Should You Wax?
- Body: Every 3–6 months, or when the finish looks dull
- Neck: Every 1–3 months, or when it starts to feel tacky
- Fingerboard: After oiling, a wax coat every 3–6 months
A little goes a long way with quality wax. You don’t need to apply thick coats — a thin, even layer buffed to a shine is far more effective than a heavy application.
LORE® Microcrystalline Wax and Fingerboard & Body Wax are both petroleum-free, solvent-free, and safe on all guitar finishes. Handmade on Dartmoor.
🎸 Not sure which LORE® product is right for your finish or instrument area? View our Product Guide →